Changsha morning

Aug. 3 – True to my first impression that Changsha does not sleep, the city in the morning was fully awake by the time I was up at 9 a.m. In daylight, Changsha is gray and hot and wet. After walking outside for less than 15 minutes, my face and back were soaked. Whether from the humidity or neglect, the faces of many apartment buildings are ragged with peeling paint. A heaviness presses down.

Cars, scooters and bicycles compete for the road. Small children ride in scooter drivers’ laps, no helmet, no seatbelt. Since my arrival the previous night, I have twice seen a scooter or bicycle nearly careen into one another. Scooters and even cars (illegally) drive on the sidewalk.

At noon, we ate beef noodle soup in a tiny shop near Changsha No. 1 Middle School. The man who works at the shop (and who I think is the owner too) pulled the noodles to order. In his hands, the thick ball of dough was multiplied into a bundle of thin, perfect noodles. A light rain fell as we ate.